The Best Dipped Ice Cream and Apple Butter is in this Island of Orleans Tour

We Go on a Gourmet Island of Orleans Tour (Île d’Orléans) in Quebec with a Local Expert

Jean-Christophe, the slim, dark-haired, well-dressed local tour guide, meets us in the lobby of the Fairmont Le Château Frontenac hotel. He’s holding a small sign which says, “Farm and Market Tour.”  I had envisioned a large school bus visiting a farmer’s market in Quebec City.  Little did I know in our Island of Orleans tour we were to be escorted on a small, comfortable bus, to a number of family-led businesses on the large, pastoral Island of Orleans just outside Quebec City.

How Big Is The Island of Orleans?

Our Island of Orleans tour starts with an introduction to the area.

The Île d’Orléans is almost double the size of Manhattan in New York City, “with fewer people,” according to Jean-Christophe.  He tells us it’s 34 km (21 miles) long, 8 km (6 miles) wide, and it’s 67 km to “do the whole tour.”

He continues, “7,000 people live on the island all year round.  Primarily farmers.  90% of the economic activity is farming.” He mentions that in addition to the farmers, there are 2 policemen and a pharmacist.  The population blooms to 12,000 in the summer, with summer workers.

Farming and Tourism

The island itself is a microclimate. It’s warmed up by the river and protected by the nearby mountains. This gives them 3 extra weeks to grow things.

Agritourism is important to the Island of Orleans.  Locals consider it the garden of Quebec, as it’s only a 15-minute drive from Old Quebec City.  Most produce in season at Quebec City markets and restaurants is supplied from the island.  Key crops include potatoes (for chips and poutine), strawberries, apples, and even lavender. There’s not much dairy, according to Jean-Christophe, as “the soil is so rich, they don’t put cows on it.”

A View of the Falls

Before we get to the island, someone notices the spray from Montmorency Falls waterfall and all the cameras come out.  At 84 metres (274’), it’s higher than Niagara Falls by 30 metres (99’), and drops over the cliff into the Saint Lawrence River.

When we visited in May, the water was particularly high, so the rush of water was dramatic.  Jean-Christophe points out that there are 487 steps on the staircase, if we should wish to climb to the top of the waterfall.  I think most of us are happy to see it from our comfortable mini-bus ride on this cool grey day.

The cameras keep snapping as our Island of Orleans tour turns onto the graceful Orleans suspension bridge, which locals refer to as the Pont de l’Île.  For years the only way to get across the river was via ferry, but since the bridge was completed in 1935, it’s the main way in and out of the island.

The Villages of the Island of Orleans

Our Island of Orleans tour bus is headed west to a village called Saint-Petronille.  “It’s a little too rocky to make extensive agriculture,” Jean-Christophe says.  “It was developed last by rich British merchants, Scottish bourgeois, and it stayed bourgeois.”  In this community there are “really nice houses with great views.  The real estate here is generally 40% higher than Quebec City, especially if you have the view on the river.”

Since the island of Orleans is a plateau, you always have a view of either the river, or the mountains.  We’ll be paralleling the Laurentian mountains during our tour this day, as we also visit the communities of Sainte-Famille, and Saint-Pierre.

Chocolaterie d’l’Ille d’Orleans

We pull up to a good-sized shop that looks a bit like a house, with white siding, and a brick patio with metal tables and chairs.  The giveaway is the bold black letters on the high shop wall which shouts, “CAFÉ RESTO, CRÈME GLACEE,” and a chocolate-coloured sign attached to the wrought iron patio fence that points one way to the first floor Chocolaterie and the other to the second floor Café-Resto Crème glacee.

Before we leave the bus, Jean-Christophe points out the house for sale next to the chocolate factory.  It is priced at $2 million.

The Best Chocolate-Dipped Ice Cream

Most importantly, Jean-Christophe has really set us up for the ice cream.  I have to try the ice cream.

He tells us, “get ready for quite possibly the best chocolate-dipped cone you will ever eat – [a nameless major chain with soft ice cream] will feel like you’re slumming.  The dark chocolate is a party in your mouth. Really. Although they do have milk chocolate and maple as well.”

I know the dark chocolate dipped cone is calling out my name.  It does not disappoint.

The chocolate is real chocolate, and it’s a thick layer that holds in the ice cream.  They hand me a spoon, and, surprisingly, I use it.  After biting off the top like a pair of chocolate Easter Bunny ears, I alternate bites of the chocolate on the sides and spoonfuls of ice cream.  It’s so good.

The Café restaurant above the chocolate shop also serves light lunches.

The Chocolate Factory Store on the Island of Orleans Tour

“And of course, there is the Chocolaterie; which is really the reason why you stopped in the first place.” – Jean-Christophe

The choices at the chocolate shop are both beautiful and appetizing.  One of the young women behind the counter carefully places dark chocolates into the set out scalloped paper cups, then lines them up with their paired lighter chocolates already in transparent boxes.

There are individual traditional chocolate squares on display, as well as souvenir or gift-giving novelties like chocolate cigars and lollipops.  The impression overall is of freshness, with all the crisp packaging.  There’s something for everyone here.

Chocolaterie Orleans
8330, Chemin Royal, Sainte-Pétronille de l’Île d’Orléans, QC  G0A 4C0
+1(418) 828-2252
+1 (800) 363-2252

Café Maison Smith Île d’Orléans – Microtorréfacteur

Coffee and Shopping

Our next stop on the Island of Orleans tour was a Café Boutique, where everything is made or designed in Canada.

The most fortunate stop for me, as I hadn’t planned well for the weather, and there was a winter white and grey jacket I saw as I walked in that I could not stop checking out.

They’d also be warming me up with a maple macchiato coffee to get the day going.  I’d never had a maple coffee before, and while I tend to avoid flavoured coffees, this one, with its espresso base and hit of hot milk, was just the right mix.

I splurged on the well-made jacket, and all week I was happy I had the extra warmth as the temperatures were cooler than my home in Toronto. That week I also received many compliments on my new coat, which made me feel that much warmer.

The Maison Smith coffee was impressive enough that I spent a lot of time that week stopping for coffee and pastries at the Maison Smith location, just a short walk away from the Fairmont hotel.

Café Maison Smith
8700 Chemin Royal, Sainte-Petronille, QC  G0A 4C0

Vignoble du Mitan Vineyard

Soon enough, we were visiting one of four vineyards on the island.  This vineyard sells its wines primarily from this location, but they are also available at some restaurants and some grocery stores.

Here we’d sample a few wines, and we were given the option to pay a small fee for a sample of ice wine.

What Is Ice Wine?

Ice wine is made out of grapes picked in January when they are hard frozen, in temperatures of -25C or -30C. When the grapes are pressed, the winemakers get a few drops from each grape, primarily the sugar, which they then ferment. Ice wine pours thickly, and can taste like caramel apples.  It’s great with a dessert course.

Vignoble du Mitan
2608 Chemin Royal, Sainte-Famille, Île d’Orléans, QC  G0A 3P0
+1 (418) 829-0901

Cider House Cidrerie / Verger Bilodeau

“Apples are a big deal around here.” – Jean-Christophe

From the moment you walk in the door, you know you’re in a place which respects and loves the apple.  The entire floor at the entrance is covered with a painting of apple trees, and people picking apples.

Not only do they have a huge pick your own apples farm, they’ve been making their apples into ciders for many years.  They make a number of different kinds of cider, all alcoholic. There are also ice ciders.

While cider is probably what most people gravitate to, Verger Bilodeau are also experts at making apple products.  Here you’ll find mustard, ketchup, vinegars, vinaigrettes, compote, jellies, jams and syrups. They even make apple foie gras.

Our hosts were very generous with their tastings, and we were able to try just about (or maybe) everything.

I brought home an apple syrup with my husband in mind.

Truly the star for me was a buttery, intensely apple-flavoured, thick apple butter.  It must be the best apple butter I’ve ever tasted.  Jean-Christophe claims it’s the best in the world, and he’s probably right.  A jar went into my collection almost immediately.  We finished it quickly.  I should have bought more.

Cidrerie / Verger Bilodeau
1868 Royal Road, Saint-Pierre-Île-d’Orléans, QC  G0A 4E0
+1 (418) 828-9316

Cassis Monna et Filles

This is a farm where they work with black currants (cassis, in French). Here they make cassis wines and liqueurs as well as compotes, jellies and some of the best mustard in Canada.

You can add the liqueur to white wine to make a Kir, add to French champagne to make a Kir Royale.  You can also add it to cider, a gin and tonic, or vodka.  Jean-Christophe tells us that the liqueurs added to clear alcohol make them the “Frenchest of cocktails.”

Jean-Christophe describes cassis to the group:”if a blueberry and a cranberry were to have babies…”

We tried two of their wines and the liqueur.

• Fruité – Fruity wine 15% alcohol, aperitif wine, drink very cold before your meal. Perfect when it’s warm outside. Can transform it into Sangria La Monnaguette by adding orange juice, club soda and black currant liqueur.
• Madérisé – Madera style wine, heated into oxidization. Once it’s fermented, they have warm water circulated around its barrel until it’s oxidized. This develops a more robust flavour. Flavours of nuts, of wood, beautiful caramelized aftertaste. It almost tastes like port. Can be served two ways. Cold, with charcuteries, cold cuts, cheeses. Serve room temperature as a digestif, with chocolates, nuts.  You can cook with it in sauces or marinades. Keeps 6 months after opening.
• Crème de Cassis – Port-style black currant liqueur. 19% alcohol. Very syrupy. Add to ciders, beers, make Kir or Kir Royale. For a surprise, add to cheesecake, or top brownies. Keeps 1-1/2 years in the fridge.

The store has a tasting area for the many products on offer, and you should definitely give them a try. I found a number of things I had to have, and brought home a bottle of Madérisé, although I wanted them all.  Definitely a highlight of our Island of Orleans tour that day.

Cassis Monna et Filles
1225 Chemin Royal, Saint-Pierre-Île-d’Orléans, QC  G0A 4E0

About the Island of Orleans Tour

Our Farm & Market tour was included as part of our Women In Travel Summit conference by Wanderful, sponsored by Quebec City Tourism.  This Farm & Market tour was a great way to get to the Island of Orleans and have a taste of these products which we might never know about otherwise.  You can find out more, and book your own tour here.

You’ve read this far, so here’s a bonus for you:

Bonus

Tips on Poutine from Jean-Christophe

What is Poutine?

Poutine, or fries topped with gravy and cheese curds, is a quintessentially Canadian, and especially Quebecois, dish.  If you grow up in Quebec City, you most likely have been out with friends for poutine in the wee hours of the morning after hitting the bars.  It’s just something you do.

Jean-Christophe, having grown up in Quebec, tells us he’s an expert and he has some tips for us.

“Honestly, I’m a poutine expert even though my shape doesn’t show it, and it is really amazing.”

Poutine is everywhere in Canada, and so are chip wagons (food trucks which serve fries and poutine).  It’s also a big part of Quebec.  “Every little town in Quebec has a potato shack.”

What Should You Look For When Ordering Poutine?

One of the ongoing discussions around poutine is whether you go traditional (fries, cheese curds, gravy) or new-fangled with all kinds of toppings.  And most experts will tell you that you want to make sure that you get squeaky cheese.  The squeakier the cheese, the fresher the cheese curds.

As important, perhaps, is the balance of ingredients:  “you want to have cheese with every one of your bites.”

Which Poutine Do You Recommend?

“A good poutine is not ordered from a table.  It’s ordered from a counter, from a lady with a hair net.” – Jean-Christophe

“Ashton is a Quebec City classic, and people who grew up in Quebec City will tell you that it’s the best.  It’s good!  All the Ashton potatoes grow on this island.

“[The] best poutine in the world is in the St Roch [san-ROCK] neighbourhood. Corner of St. Joseph and Dorchester.  Little red place. You would easily walk right by it.  First because it looks dirty and second because it’s so small and is unremarkable. It’s called Chez Gaston. The cheese is always fresh, the fries are just ah-mazing, the gravy is just a little sweet, it’s real great.”

“Every year the New York Times does an article called 36 hours in ______. In 2016 and 2017 they did 36 hours in Quebec City.” Chez Gaston is one of the places featured.

So we went.  More about that in an upcoming post.